We're finally leaving for Seoul! Prior to the trip, any free time I had during my lunch break and after work hours in the month before was invested in putting together an itinerary, planning our routes and directions. It was bad enough we were coming home a day earlier (due to an error overlooking the dates we booked for our flights) from 26th November to 5th December so I wasn't one to be leaving the trip up to impromptu plans and spontaneity because this was not just an overnight trip across the border.
(Photo courtesy of https://cdn01.vulcanpost.com/
A week before our flight, I booked an overseas Wi-Fi Router through changirecommends.com charged at $5/day. However, I did read up that wi-fi in Korea bersepah meaning you can literally get a free wi-fi connection anywhere easily but then again, you can never be too sure so a pocket wi-fi router would come in handy and yes, it, was.
Our flight was at 09:20pm so we reached Changi Airport, Terminal 2 at about 05:00-06:00pm because.. kanchiong. And it is essential to be kanchiong if you're flying with Malaysia Airlines. Our flight from SIN-KUL was delayed and unbeknownst to us, this moment forth would set off a chain of events.
Upon checking with the lady at the check-in counter about our flight delay, fortunately she said she will be able to put us on an earlier flight on Silkair instead from SIN-KUL so that we would be able to catch our following flight from KUL-ICN. Although we came early to check-in, one of our traveling companion, Shahril was stuck in the jam and he lives all the way in Yishun. Well to be fair, he wasn't late but due to the last minute changes in flight, you can imagine the panic and anxiety that comes along with the wait.
When Shahril finally arrived at the airport, we thought we could finally put our mind at ease. We were told that Cik Rosly's passport was short of a week from the required 6 months validity. Getting from here to Kuala Lumpur wouldn't be a problem but getting to Seoul from KL, chances were he won't be able to pass the immigration and he would have to take a flight back to Singapore. Our best hope was to pray to the highest heavens that they would close one eye instead of killing a family's holiday vibes.
Being concerned for Kai's Dad was one thing. Apparently, we needed to collect our luggage upon arrival at KLIA, exit from the transit area and check-in to collect our boarding passes for our flight from KUL-ICN. Our biggest concern was, would there be sufficient time for us to complete all the necessary procedures within that 1 hour transit.
Getting through the immigration at Kuala Lumpur International Airport took a little longer for Cik Rosly. Thankfully it wasn't anything to be concerned about but the immigration officer did gave a gentle reminder about his passport's expiry. To our immense relief, the lady assigned to us at KLIA was kind and reassured that Cik Rosly's passport would not be an issue to get into Korea. We proceeded to collect our luggage and headed to check-in at the Malaysian Airlines/Korean Air counter to collect our boarding passes for our flight from KUL-ICN.
At the Malaysia Airlines/Korean Air counter, we were further informed that our flight to Incheon has been fully booked. Due to this, they were only able to get two of us seated together while the rest of us would be seated separately so it was only fitting that we gave the two seats to Kai's parents. Well, at least we didn't get bumped off our flight.
When then headed back to the skytrain to get to Gate H for our flight only to find out flight was delayed, again except this time I was actually grateful because man, that was intense. After all that we had to go through, we no longer needed to rush from place to place. Our flight was not for another hour so we sat around at Starbucks to rest and grab a quick bite to eat.
EN ROUTE TO INCHEON AIRPORT, SEOUL
Our flight from KUL-ICN was actually bearable. The seats were far from luxurious but provides just the right amount of comfort for a 6 hours long journey. Although Kai and I couldn't get a seat together, we were just one seat away so dapat jugak lepaskan rindu heh #overlyattached. Fresh blankets, pillows and headphones were provided as well to accompany me throughout my trip so I'm all good. I must say though, what would we all ever do without in-flight entertainment?
Korean Air's in-flight entertainment had quite the variety of movies, dramas, tv shows, kids entertainment and games so I ain't complaining. Although, I am very fickle minded so I often find myself switching from channel to channel. One moment I was excited for Finding Dory, the next I'd be laughing to How I met your Mother and another, you'd see me crying to Me Before You. The struggle is real when you're spoiled for choice. Not that it matters but... I pretty much slept throughout the flight to Incheon. That's J for you. I'm all about the eat, sleep, poop, repeat life.
Food in general was okay. Let's be realistic, you can't expect much from airline food. When you're hungry, anything and everything tastes good. For breakfast, I decided to go for the omelette with veggies. I'm not sure what everybody else had for dinner because well... I was completely knocked out. What can I say, I can literally sleep just about anywhere.
As soon as we arrived at Incheon International Airport, we connected to our portable Wi-fi router to all 6 devices, whipped out our jackets and coats from our hand-carry luggage and braced ourselves for the cold. We couldn't be anymore thrilled to have landed safely in Seoul.
It had been a rough 12 hours for everyone, we were hungry and tired from the long flight. First thing's first, I contacted my Airbnb host, Mike and informed him of our arrival. Local time was 09:15pm so we have plenty of time to kill anyway until we check-in our apartment at 03:00pm.
GETTING AROUND SEOUL USING T-MONEY CARD
(Photo courtesy of http://www.popdaily.com.tw/article/8356)
The Subway app allows you to chart your journey, estimate traveling time and number of stops as well as telling you where to change trains. Be sure to download the app beforehand so you'll be able to use it even without Wifi or a working data connection.
Getting around Seoul was relatively easy for us with the T-money rechargeable (Singaporeans say top up) transportation card convenient for both citizens and tourists to use on public transportation such as bus and subway. It's basically just like the Ez-link card we use in Singapore.
With a base fee of ₩4,000, any value can be added to the card at the automated travel card recharge machine located at every subway station, or from 24 hours convenience stores (for example, GS25, Family Mart, Buy the Way, etc). Fret not, any balance amount in your card can be refunded as well.
Finding your way around Seoul is not impossible. The automated recharge machine provides a few choices of language to choose from and majority of places, signages and directions are also written in both Hangul and English so that's pretty great and tourist friendly.
INCHEON AIRPORT TO SEOUL STATION
Currently, there are two trains traveling out from Incheon International Airport to Seoul Station. The Airport Railway Express (AREX) ₩14,800 (approx. 43min) and the all-stop train Adults ₩4,250/Youth ₩3,040/Children ₩1,900 (approx. 56min). It seemed logical to go with the cheaper option and the traveling time differs by only about 13 minutes!
The near to an hour long train ride to Seoul Station was bearable with our portable Wi-fi router. Our journey to Seoul Station was met with a lot of sceneries and picturesque vast ocean, farms, mountains and forests, nothing you'll ever see in Singapore.
(Photo courtesy of https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:KNR-Seoul-Station-new-inside-view.jpg)
Seoul Station is basically the gateway to Seoul, which is the capital city of Korea and with the addition of the new building, Galleria Department Store and Lotte Mart, definitely a lot of shopping can be done there.
The most frustrating part of our trip was searching for our apartment. Seoul Station was a lot more bigger than it seemed in the map. Apparently, it has a ton of underground tunnels from Exit 1-15 leading to god knows where and based on the Google maps, taking Exit 5 would be the most ideal route to get there. Unfortunately, as we navigated through the tunnels with our hand-carry and luggages for a good 10 minutes, we legit ended up all the way at Namdaemun.
When we found our way to the ground level of Seoul Station, I decided to give the GPS on my phone the benefit of the doubt, hoping that it would lead us the right way. I didn't think it would be that hard navigating with Google maps which later I found out the hard way that Google maps were far from accurate and Koreans apparently have their own version of updated maps and apps to getting around.
Halfway through the wrong route, the rest decided to stop and ask the locals instead. And yet, everybody we asked seemed to be pointing towards either one of the directions. I felt hugely responsible to get us to the apartment mainly because I suggested it and getting lost in this cold weather, so not ideal.
After much deliberation, we decided to go back inside Seoul Station and check with the information counter. Upon checking with the lady at the information counter, she started to key away in Hangul the address on a very unfamiliar and unheard of website (obviously, not Google maps) and directed us to Exit 15 which was, as you've guessed it, the opposite of what my GPS showed. Freaking Exit 15.
Dengan izin Allah (God willing), we found Exit 15 and well what do you know, our host, Mike finally replied to my message. He did however, apologized for not being able to reply earlier as he was cleaning and setting up the apartment before our arrival.
Nonetheless, Mike and his friend tried their best to accommodate our request for an early check-in. I cannot emphasize enough how sorry I was towards everyone for getting us lost but man, that was the most frustrating 30 minutes of my life in Seoul thus far.
AIRBNB, MIKE'S APARTMENT
(Photo courtesy of Mike's Airbnb)
When we arrived at the apartment, Mike was very nice to let us set down our things and wait in the living room as they finish tidying up the bedrooms and changing the sheets to fresh ones. We couldn't be anymore grateful for that.
The apartment looks exactly like in the pictures and had a warm, cosy and homey vibe to it. Despite the trouble getting lost and finding our way to the apartment at first, our stay was a pleasant one. As soon as we know the way, it's a very walkable distance to Seoul Station and Lotte Mart.
There's also a convenience store just below the apartment at the lobby area which is very convenient (hence, the name convenience store lol) for us to grab a bite to eat late at night or if you happen to run out of cigarettes but the cold is too unbearable to go anywhere outside.. you get my drift. I cannot emphasize enough how important it is to get an apartment near Seoul Station. Central of Seoul and saves you a lot of time and most importantly, easy to get to anywhere by metro (subway).
After we were all done settling in our apartment, time to go kai kai!
ITAEWON, SEOUL CENTRAL MOSQUE
After getting lost and fighting against the cold, there's only one thing on our minds. Food. What better place to get your Korean halal fix than the much raved Eid in Itaewon. Because when in Korea.. you eat Korean food.
How to get there: Exit 3, Itaewon Station (Line 6), walk to your left and look for Udasan-Ro. Walk up the hill along Udasan-Ro and turn to your left on the third street that you see. There, you will pass by Seoul Central Mosque, Muree Muslim Restaurant and Makan Restaurant. Continue walking straight and you'll find Eid on your left.
(Photo courtesy of https://www.flickr.com/photos/budgetcouple/5460763961)
Itaewon is where the Muslim community live in and the road leading up to the Seoul Central Mosque have plenty of halal restaurants, convenience stores, foreign food mart, butchers and even a bakery. One should visit the Seoul Central Mosque while in Itaewon.
Coincidentally, it was time for 'Asr and as we waited for Kai and his Dad to finish performing their prayers, we decided to take a little tour around the mosque. Unfortunately, I didn't manage to take any pictures of the front entrance of the mosque simply because my hands were freezing! So what you're looking at here is the back entrance.
Even though I had on my ASOS touchscreen gloves, it was a constant battle trying to take pictures and often, I winded up taking them off instead. Cannot tahan liao and every time I snap something, it goes into burst mode!
EID GUESTHOUSE AND HALAL KOREAN FOOD
(Photo courtesy of http://edition.cnn.com/)
Opening hours: Tuesday to Sunday, 11:30AM to 9:00PM (Closed on Mondays)
The food here in general is pretty good. I decided to order for myself the Beef Bulgogi (marinated beef bbq) set which costs ₩10,000. It actually reminded me of the marinated meat we often eat at Seoul Garden. Yeah, that's exactly how it tastes like but it was still good. You can never go wrong with marinated meat or any meat for that matter.
The set comes with a bowl of rice, seaweed soup and side dishes such as kimchi, obviously. Knowing Malays, rice is a must. It's basically our staple food so finding yourself a decent and filling meal here in Korea, it's the least of your worries.
Over here at Eid, you can even request for free refills of soups, rice and side dishes.
What's not to love about that?
On the way back to the subway, we dropped by the Foreign Food Mart to grab some snacks to bring back to our apartment and man, you can find plenty of things there from various parts of the world. And they are all Halal?! I'm not a chips kind of person so I stocked up loads on Skittles and gummy candies. Train rides, the long walks and the cold makes you hungry so it's essential to bring along some snacks to munch on.
Unfortunately, we didn't stick around Itaewon a minute longer to explore as the sky was already getting dark and I'll be honest, we couldn't wait to go to quite possibly the most happening and famous tourists shopping attraction and that is none other than....
....Myeong-dong!
One of Seoul's most popular and leading shopping district, Myeong-dong offers a huge variety of products, ranging from brand stores to affordable street stores. Korean skincare and beauty brands – Innisfree, Etude House, Skinfood, Nature Republic, etc., can be found literally everywhere here and you can purchase these at 30-40% of what you're paying in Singapore.
And if you're lucky (like us!), that Sunday happened to be the last day of Black Friday Sale so there were tons of brands selling their products at a 1 + 1 deal!
If you ever get lost or need assistance, look out for these guys.
(Photo courtesy of http://farrahespina.com/)
How to get here: Exit 5/6/7/8, Myeong-dong Station, (Line 4) This exit comes up at Migliore shopping mall right at the heart of Myeong-dong shopping district. Before exiting, don't forget to check out Myeong-dong underground shopping. You can find plenty of shopping, CDs, KPOP merchandise, etc.
SHOPPING TIPS AND TAX-REFUNDS
Shopping Tip #1: Try to hit at least ₩30,000 on each receipt due to the minimum sum allowed for tax refunds. Although most shops adhere by this amount but do take note that some may have a ₩50,000 minimum spending before tax refunds are allowed. You can always ask and check with the store clerks.
Shopping Tip #2: Card it - save your cash for Dongdaemun shopping (where cash payment usually gets you a lower price). However, make sure that your card doesn't have overseas charges – for my case I used POSB debit card and they charged me about SGD 20.00!
Shopping Tip #3: Bring your own recycled/shopping bag – you will need it since you will be shopping a lot. Even if you're not into beauty products, you can never be too sure.
(Source of reference https://beautifulbuns.wordpress.com/)
If you're like me and you have the likeliest tendency of impulse shopping, and you're planning to come here on your first day.. Please do yourself and your wallet a favor by not bringing along all of your money.
Guilty as charged, it certainly doesn't make things any easier when store clerks try to lure in you with free samples. It's honestly such a clever business strategy and I loathe them entirely for it. And even if you need to, indulge yourself with none other than..
MYEONG-DONG STREET FOOD
(Photo courtesy of malaysianflavours)
1. Korean egg bread or Gyeran-ppang 계란빵 (fluffy bread at the bottom, topped with egg and cheese, sometimes with nuts and sunflower seeds), Price: ₩2,000
A trip to Myeong-dong would be incomplete without yes, stuffing your face with street food!
2. Korean Grilled Cheese Lobster Tail, Price: ₩15,000
It's lobster, with cheese, of course it was good. The meat was sweet and fresh but for ₩15,000? Not exactly something I would buy again.
3. Grilled Octopus
Nothing special, just chunks of octopus cut up, skewered and grilled
topped with sauce and bonito flakes.
4. Cheesy Grilled Scallops
Scallops topped with mozzarella and cheddar cheese then torched. Eating this in the cold when it's piping hot, fresh and juicy, definitely worth the buy.
5. Crispy Crablets or Deep Fried Crispy Baby Crabs
6. Korean Softserve, Price: ₩2,000
Unlike any other softserve, average serving is about 32cm tall. They come in twist flavours such as Chocolate and Vanilla, Greentea and Vanilla or Strawberry and Vanilla. I'm honestly very annoyed with that bit of chocolate hanging by the side.
7. Fishcake, Eomuk, or Odeng 오뎅 Price: ₩1,500
These fishcakes were hands down the best. Not only were they cheap, they were soooo good and halal. And the broth, oh my god. Mind blowing. It is quite possibly the best thing to have when you're hungry and cold. The fishcake broth is free and refillable so you can pretty much help yourselves to as much as you want.
I watch a lot of Korean dramas and I see them eat tons of these. I used to think that they were probably exaggerating with the "Ahhh" when they take a sip but I was so wrong. It was indeed, "Ahhh..", definitely refreshing and instantly warms you from the inside out.
8. Sweet Korean Pancake also known as Hotteok 호떡 Price: ₩2,000
It's basically brown sugar, cinnamon and nut filled pancake-like dessert but these tasted freaking incredible.
The best times to visit Myeong-dong is on weekdays when it is less crowded because during the weekends, it is insane. Personally, I liked going during night time as the street stalls usually start operation from 03:00-05:00pm onwards and it'll be damn happening. However, majority of the shops in the area closes as early as 10:00-11:00pm.
Fret not, you could always take a train ride down to Dongdaemun where shops open until 5:00AM and literally shop 'til you drop!
*Do take note that most of the street food mentioned in this post are NOT halal-certified so I advise any fellow Muslims reading this to consume at your own discretion.
It was only about 08:30pm but it oddly felt a lot like it was already 10:00pm. We were tired, we were cold, we could no longer stuff anymore food into our bellies and we simply had to call it a day.
Although it was still considered rather early, by the time we trained back to Seoul Station, walk to our apartment, followed by 6 people taking turns to shower, time check: 10:30pm. Holidays are far, far, far from relaxing please.
Although it was still considered rather early, by the time we trained back to Seoul Station, walk to our apartment, followed by 6 people taking turns to shower, time check: 10:30pm. Holidays are far, far, far from relaxing please.
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